Fujian province has been the center of Oolong tea production for centuries. From 17 century it also became the main hub of tea export to Europe, and in 18 century the first recipe of red (commonly known as black) tea has been developed. Known as Lapsang Souchong or Zhen Shan Xiao Zheng, it is made from oolong tea tree varietals with special drying technique. Cheap varieties are characterised by overwhelming smoke aroma, while truly authentic ones carry spicy aroma and deep mellow taste reminiscent of noble oolongs.